...and the woooorld's your ashtray. Easy to say. Granted I spent last night slumped over the blackjack table at the world's cheesiest casino listening to one of those "so bad they're still bad" coverbands do Stevie Wonder etc... On the other hand, in between the gas stations and strip-clubs, somewhere near the quicky-mart lies a secret Reno which thrives as an antidote to the cheeze n' sleeze. 'Old Southwest' (photos to come) is a beautiful and mellow oasis of professionalism and reason amid the chaos, plus they have a damn good frozen custard store. The ashtray has flowers growing in it around here, and any would-be Reno detracters ought hold their peace.

But, still, not even David Hasselhoff can match the sheer power of the Peppermill's Fireside Lounge... a sight we must all behold at least once in our lifetimes.